The Catch and The Release (Pt. III)
Rod, Reel and Terminal TackleAlways use good line, in a high enough test to handle anything that may bite. You never know when the fish of your life will appear and you don't want her swimming off to die with your best bait crossed up in her mouth. Minimum 80lb test braid, coupled with the best fluoro or wire leaders you can make or buy. Never use inferior equipment - it will cost you fish, baits and gear. Double check the condition of your gear and knots throughout the day. Check your guides, line condition (This can be a big issue fishing in rocks and timber). If you can, have extra gear with just in case; I feel quality equipment is not expensive - it's necessary to your enjoyment and the fishes survival.
Barbless Hooks
For all the right reasons, fast hook removal with minimal tissue damage to the fish and potentially yourself. Matt Hollbrook likes them for night fishing, especially to avoid complications. I will go totally barbless this season after talking to Rob Kimm about this matter. He doesn't see any difference in catch rates from barbed hooks over several years of their usage. The benefits far outweigh the barbed hook option when it comes to a quick, clean release from yourself and the fish.
We have gone totally barbless Trout fishing for about 6-8 years and I must conquer with Mr.Kimm's and Hollbrook's results on losing fish. It happens with both. One thing I do with Trout hooks that I will do with Muskie is rotate the hook points like the Excalibur hooks - they really grab and hold for me and push out clean and easy.
Foresight and the Fight
I assess what I'm going to need before the fish ever sees the net. I look at hook placement and the condition of the fish, consider the fight (time), water temps (high), who I'm with and their proficiency with the tools and release. There's guys I will just assist because I know they are going to go right at it and do the right thing the first time to get her on her way to your bait on the next trip.
I always keep my rod low to keep the fish from jumping, this is very hard on fish especially big fish. I’ve had several on a long line that jump and there's just nothing you can do but hope for the best. In high surface temp situations, a jumping fish can be a death sentence - it takes too much out of them. One gentleman has seen big fish break its back on the jump. This was confirmed by the Taxidermist doing the vivisection. So, do all you can to keep'em low in the water and save the show for T.V. hosts. Play her quickly to reduce stress and trauma.
Mindset
The most important things are; use your head, don't panic, rationalize, always put the fish ahead of your ego and your needs. The fish needs to swim so you can provide the ultimate gift to someone else, the fish of their lifetime. It's the most unselfish act ever perpetrated by sportsman and it makes you a better angler and person in the end.
Ounce of Prevention
It's a good idea to cut all hooks on the bait to avoid the fish rolling a point into her eyes, gills or potentially the Ventral Artery. Hooks are cheap. The fish and possibly your own hands will appreciate those few points drifting to the bottom instead of the lesser forgiving possibility's of the Taxidermist or the E.R. along with a lost day or two on the water.
Rough Conditions
When high winds and water mix this can be a great opportunity to catch fish and inadvertently kill them. This is generally done by drowning the fish from the water flowing in reverse through the gills. It has been necessary for me to kick my trolling motor in gear and run parallel with the waves (Fishing partners are great for this) to revive fish on the leeward side of the boat. This is a very tricky condition to fish in especially in high surface temperatures or cold water under freezing conditions. During the fall the release is much easier; aside from the possibility of you going overboard, this is dangerous and not worth it, by all means don't go out alone and wear your PFD no mater what.
One common misconception is that PFD's are not cool. Unfortunately, when they drag your body out of 30 feet of water you'll be about 39 degrees. So do yourself and everyone that cares about you coming home a favor and buy an inflatable, you'll never even know its on.
A few other things that can be done depending on how rough the conditions are one can drop an anchor as described by Paul Leitelt of Lakeshore Lure Co. You'll have opportunity to point the fish to the current and get her going back just like you were never there. This does depend upon the boat and the waves; never drop anchor of the rear of your boat.
Another rough condition tactic may or may not be legal in your State or Province, and that may not matter to you if the release depends on the fish and your safety. Put her in the livewell and run to calm water, this may at times be the best option for all concerned participants. Always remember your safety is #1 and the fish deserves another chance too.
Succesful Release!
I always keep fish during cold weather in the water to avoid the freezing air on the gills, skin (Slime Coat) and eyes. Especially keeping protection from the wind. Remember, you have a Jacket and you can blink to heat and lubricate your eyes, the fish can't. Also, you may be able to find a person to feed you and train you when you go blind but the fish isn't as lucky so keep'em in the drink.
Also keep in mind your physical limitations, everything is 3 times harder to do in at or below freezing temps. Without help to unhook and work the fish this type of fishing could be considered a suicide mission in the fact that if you do fall in, there is no possible way to get back in the boat and get home during the onset of hypothermia. Consider your Family, Friends and the Fish.
Limit any time out of the water to 10 seconds or less under optimal conditions (35-76 deg air and water temps) over and under that keep’em wet please. Don't be afraid to take the week or two off when surface temps get over 78 to 80+ Degrees. It's undue stress on the fish and we usually need to fulfill a honey do list by then anyway.
Measurements
The time before you lift the fish when she's just relaxing in the net is my opportunity to get a girth measurement of her without adding additional stress to her and it takes about 2 seconds. Try not to rake the tape up and down her. OK, now you've got your picture and your ready to let her swim this is where you want to have the Measuring Stick at your knees so when you set her in you can do your measuring. This action is also dependent on the condition of the fish, the environment and yourself. If the stick looks like 50.5, call it 51 if you like. Remember, it's your fish and your memory. As far as getting the exact bump board measurement, I prefer the water although the bump board is a widely practiced method but it does add to some possible negative impacts on the fish and potentially yourself if she is dropped.
No Need For Size
Many anglers, myself included, care less about the size of the fish and more about the experience. A growing trend to release the fish and take no measurements of size or weight is the next level of C&R. I feel the fish needs all my attention on release and that effort can be hindered by the measuring process. "ALL" of my fish are measured in the water. If in fact I do take time to do so depends on the fish's, environmental and my condition; more often SIZE means less to many experienced Muskie anglers, it's more about the enjoyment and the time on the water.
Handling for a Photo
As soon as the hooks are out I make sure that the Camera Man or Woman is ready to go, the camera is on, the LCD is working so it can be a point and shoot scenario. At this time, I remind them that there will be time for 2 quick shots and back she goes. If we don't get it we have a good memory anyway and a nice release shot.
One of my favorite angles is the fish in the water looking at the Camera along with the Angler. Mr. Voigt has some incredible shots like this with some if the biggest fish I’ve seen. Definitely a winner because she never leaves the lake.
Back to the lifting and cradling. There is a short time that the fish will be vertical and supported by her jaw. That's the real downside of this hold so try to keep it to a minimum. Start supporting the fish with both hands while on your knees(This is hard on your back but it's necessary with Big fish to avoid breaking or stretching their
Hang On!
Self Shots
If you use a timer set it to 10 seconds hit the button, reach down, lift her out turn and get the shot. This works great and trust me 10 seconds is long enough of a delay. Just take a few practice shots before you go out and you're gonna like the results. Even slightly out of frame shot can become a very cool picture.
She Goes Nuts In Your Hand
I’ve had this a few times and all I can recommend is to stay cool and let your elbows relieve the shock. Do not go rigid and do not drop the fish! I had a nice fish do this to me last summer, she gave no warning. I never felt her load up, she just went coiling away from my body. The picture above is in the middle of this fight; it's not a photo I'm proud of but it illustrates what the fish is capable of and how to move with her and not fight her to death. I always hold a fish close so I can use my body to direct her and roll with her. This is impossible to accomplish if you are holding her at arms length to make her appear larger than she really is in the picture. Remember to go with her not against her and you'll reduce the damage dramatically, especially if you dump her on her head on the carpet trying to get that arms length photo. This fish owned me and it happened in a instant even doing everything I could to reduce the occurrence, I followed her head up with her force and rolled back to the seat as she twisted and still maintained some support on her body. Always try to control the tail first and her head will follow, this can sometimes be difficult with large fish with a two fisted stub(Tail). I should have never taken her out of the water, lesson learned.
